Vertical Horizons Guiding

Monday multi pitching! #climbinglife #womanwhoclimb #multipitch #rockiesclimbing #bowvalleyclimbing #tourismalberta #canadasworld @grippedmagazine

You got to the top, now you have to get back down. 1. The rappel starts with threading the rope through the 2 rappel points. The rappel points may be rappel rings (shown), the last link of a chain, or quicklinks. If the anchor is just hangers, or there is only a single bolt double check the route beta because decent from this anchor may not be possible or you may have to leave gear (your own quicklinks or an old biner). 2. Tie a barrel knot in each end of the rope. Contin...ue feeding the rope through the rap points while neatly coiling the rope back and forth over your hand. Small coils are less likley to tangle. Have your climbing partner do the same with the other side of the rope. 3. Line up the middle of the rope between the rap points. The middle may be marked with ink or can be indicated by a change in the rope color pattern (shown- green stripes to solid blue). Then give your stacked ropes a hardy toss in the direction of the decent. #rappelling #climboutside #yycclimbing #calgaryclimbing #rockiesclimbing #doyouclimb #climb @ Calgary, Alberta

Just dont forget to look down. #climbinglife #rockiesclimbing #calgaryclimbing #getoutandclimb #multipitch #canadasworld #womanwhoclimb @grippedmagazine

Course Review Material: Belay From Above In order to bring a second up the pitch the lead climber belaying directly off the anchor with a guide style belay device. Here is an overview of the 3 step process taught for Belaying from Above in our multi-pitch programs. If you want to learn belaying from above and other multi-pitch skills check out the VHG website (link in bio), or send us a message! 1. Build an Anchor and Secure Yourself There are many different ways to build ...an equalized anchor for multi-pitch climbing, this system is a favorite because it is simple, has no knots, and is easily adjusted. Make building the anchor less stressful by setting up the double length (120cm) sling, 2 non-locking carabiners, and a large rounded Master Point carabiner BEFORE you start climbing - Then its just clip and flip at the top! The lead climber is secured to the MP with an additional locking carabiner on either a Personal Anchor System (shown) or a clove hitch on the climbers side of the rope. 2. Stack the Rope Using an extra draw as a directional piece pull up all the extra rope between you and your second. If you are feeling fancy (or are at a hanging belay) the rope gets stacked over your PAS, or make a small rope pile at your feet. 3. Set up the ATC The ATC in guide mode requires two locking carabiners - a HARD locker for connecting metal to metal, and a SOFT locker for clipping the rope and wire loop. Take the rope from the directional piece and feed it into ATC set up in guide mode ensuring that the climbers side of the rope is on the top and the brake strand runs through the teeth. #doyouclimb #calgaryclimbing #getoutandclimb #learnnewskills #climboutside #belaybetter #yycclimbing @ Canmore, Alberta

Happiness is infectious on the rock face. #bowvalleyclimbing #rockiesclimbing #yycactive #getoutandclimb #tradclimbing #tradisrad @grippedmagazine

Fixed Anchor Lead Belay In the past several years there has been a significant amount of research on the forces that the belayer experiences when arresting a multi-pitch leader fall. What we have found is that there can be violent force and upward pull when using traditional belaying methods which can injure the belayer or cause them to lose control of the brake strand. The FABL technique has been recently developed to protect the belayer in the event of a high impact fall o...r in situations where the belayer may lose control of the belay, or become injured due to inexperience, size, or high impact forces. There are several different ways to set up the anchor for a FALB, but the general rules are; anchor must be bomber (and able to withstand upward pull) soft anchor materials must be doubled at the anchor point the belay must be from a locking carabiner The belay can utilize a tube style device (shown) or the Italian Hitch. If you want to learn more the FALB anchors and belay technique are taught in our Multi-pitch programs or in advanced skills courses. #belaybetter #belaytionship #climbinglife #doyouclimb #yycclimbing #calgaryclimbing #getoutandclimb #learnnewskills #climbingskills

Wondering what a day out climbing for your family or kids would look like? Heres a great write up from @threemountainfamilyhikes talking about her sons experience cragging with us Cougar Canyon. #getoutsideandclimb #calgaryclimbing #bowvalleyclimbing #learnnewskills #yycfamily https://threemountainfamilyhikes.ca/do-your-kiddos-have-t/

Soak in the sun. Its been a exceptionally hot summer this year and when you are up on the rock, it can feel even hotter. Heres a few pointers to help keep you climbing happy through the dog days of summer; Avoid climbing on south aspects during peak sun (12-4pm) or when temps are above 20... wear a light breathable windbreaker layer to protect your skin and keep you cool bring at least 2L of water with added electrolytes (and drink it slowly throughout your session) dial back on physical exertion- leave the hiking and hard sends for when temps are cooler. #summer #bowvalleyclimbing #rockiesclimbing #calgaryclimbing #beattheheat #climbinglife #multipitchclimb #slabclimbing #sportclimbing

Tick climbing outside off your wish list this summer. #getoutandclimb #leadclimbing #womenonlead #yycclimbing #learnnewskills #bowvalleyclimbing #calgaryclimbing

Most frequently used for cleaning to lower, the Figure 8 on a Bight is a essential for your knot knowledge. a bight is when the rope doubles back on itself, a loop is when it crosses over itself to form a "o" Aim to have the loop no bigger than 1-2 hand widths when the knot is complete... a well dressed (neat) knot isnt stronger, nor necessarily easier to untie, but it is much easier to check to see if its correct #knots #rope #doyouclimb #yycclimbing #calgaryclimbing #getoutandclimb @ Calgary, Alberta

Get yo slab on. Trust in your footwork is key to slab climbing. Think about actively engaging your legs from the arches of your feet to your quads- press into the rock like you are trying to push the wall away from you. Keep your heels low to maximize the amount of rubber contact you have through the ball of your foot and take several small steps rather than one big high step. #slabclimbing #trustyourfeet #rockiesclimbing #bowvalleyclimbing #tourismalberta #climbingphotosofinstagram #climblife #climb

33% of #yyc population is a visible minority, but there are currently far fewer BIPOC climbers in the outdoor community. The reasons behind this are complicated, but VHG hope to play a part in tipping the scale. At this time, one way we can help make outdoor climbing more accessible for BIPOC climbers is to make programs more affordable. Enter the discount code BIPOC20 to receive 20% any program. Do you have other ideas of how to make climbing more accessible for all? We ...want to hear from you. #calgaryclimbing #yycclimbing #bipoc #strongertogether #doyouclimb #yycactive

Parking changes for Barrier, Grassi, and Yamnuska https://www.albertaparks.ca//advisories-public-s/advisory/

Just a bit of gardening at Cowbell Crag. The climbing at this crag would be phenomenal, if it wasnt so overgrown. I still think it pretty darn fun, but cleaning out the cracks to make your placements isnt everyones cup of tea. This 35-40m conglomerate bluff is a uniquely pebbley wall with bomber crack features. Its easy to protect, and it requires the combination of face and crack moves making the movement interesting and diverse. The grades do feel a bit spicy, but with ...some more traffic this might change. Cowbell crag is in south Kananaskis (about 1.5hrs) from Calgary. I will and currently working on setting up a camp, clean & climb event mid Aug- early Sept to give this crag some much needed love. If you would be interested in joining us DM me or leave note below! #cowbellcrag #justbombergear #climbinglife #tradisrad #climbingyyc #gardening #kananaskis #calgaryclimbing #getoutandclimb

A barrel knot could save a life. Never forget to put them on the ends of the rope when rappelling and the free end of the rope when lead climbing. 1. From the end of the rope measure out about 1m 2. Using the tail end wrap the rope so that it cross back over top of itself 3. Wrap around once more and then pass the end through the middle... 4. Pull firmly to set the knot. A cleanly finished barrel knot should have 2 or 3 untwisted wraps and at least 3 hand widths of tail. #knots #doyouclimb #climbinglife #yycclimbing #bowvalleyclimbing #climb #rappelling #leadclimbing #calgaryclimbing @ Calgary, Alberta

Yam is closed after many rescues this season and most recently a death. Tragic. Hopefully we can all use this time to reflect on how we prepare for adventures in the mountains and bring awareness to the risks we take on. https://www.albertaparks.ca//k/bow-valley-wpp/advisories/

Reduce the stress of cleaning the anchor by using these simple tips; communicate with your belayer before you leave the ground so they know what to expect methodically follow the same progression each time always add before your subtract practice at ground level... verbalize the steps so your belayer can help you double check your work #cleaningtheanchor #climbingtips #doyouclimb #yycclimbing #getoutandclimb #yycfit #yycactive #bowvalleyclimbing

The epicenter for Rockies traditional climbing, Yam is either spoken about with dreamy-eyed reverence or nervous apprehension. But whether you love it or hate it, there is certainly no denying that there is something captivating about this golden half moon face. #yamnuska #bowvalleyclimbing #tradisrad #multipitch #tradclimbing #yycclimbing #doyouclimb

Clipping! When first learning to lead climbing/belay, it can be helpful to use the verbal prompt Clipping to let your belayer know you are ready for bit of extra rope, especially if you arent able to see eachother. As the belaytionship grows the belayer will get a feel of much tension the climber likes, how to expect them to move on the wall, and even what they are doing (without line of sight), just through the wiggles of the rope. #belaytionship #climboutside #leadclimbing #yycclimbing #calgaryclimbing #getreadytosend

Are you ready to take your climbing to the next level? From multi-pitch to traditional & crack climbing, there is an endless amount of adventure to be found in the vertical world. Break away from the crowds at the crag and see where climbing can take you. MULTI-PITCH: climbing several pitches (15-60m sections) upwards in a single day. Most multis in the Bow Valley are 100-400m tall. ... TRADITIONAL: or just "Trad" climbing involves inserting active [cams] and passive [nuts] gear into cracks to protect the lead climber. When multi-pitch trad climbing, the second [climber] retrieves this gear in order to continue climbing upwards. CRACK: using jamming techniques to climb a crack feature. This involves actively camming a combination of; fingers, hands, arms, feet, knees, or maybe your whole body, into the crack(s) to keep you on the wall and moving upwards. This season VHG is offering private and small group programs so you can learn rock skills in a Covid-conscious environment, while getting high quality, personalized instruction #pushyourlimits #doyouclimb #yycclimbing #getoutandclimb #multipitch #tradclimbing #crackclimbing #calgaryclimbing The Grandwall, Squamish

Almost like Squamish... A crack splitting beautifully blank (and very prickly) slab is an uncommon find in the Rockies. I am always unreasonably giddy when I do find them- its not really crack climbing but close enough to make my heart happy. #crackclimbing #climbinglife #womanwhoclimb #rockiesclimbing #yycclimbing #tradisrad #kidgoatclimbing

A gem for Traditional climbing in the heart of Peter Lougheed Provinical Park. Joy stands out as one of the most exceptional climbs in the Canadian Rockies. This full trad line offers 610m of continuous crack, slab, and corner climbing at a moderate grade. The veiws of Upper Kananaskis lake are stunning and there is plenty of solid gear options. This climb is however a very long and committing day. There is no bailing off mid-route (without losing a whole lot of gear) an...d where the climbing ends requires an additional few hundred meters of exposed hiking and scrambling to top out. Then you need to bushwack through prime grizzly territory to either reach the (now decommissioned) Mt.Indefatigable hikers trail or find the correct steep scree gully down. Car to car you can expect this climb to take 9-12 hours (with likely 2-3 hours of that just for the decent). Its highly recommended that you do this route with someone that has been there before, that there is no uncertainty in the weather conditions, and that you plan/ pack for a full day of climbing and hiking. #peterlougheedprovincialpark #canadasworld #explorealberta #tradisrad #multipitch #tradclimbing #yycclimbing #kananaskis @ Peter Lougheed Provincial Park

Multi-pitch climbing involves climbing multiple 20-60m "pitches" to get to the top of a tall cliff face. Most multi-pitch routes in this area are ~200-350m tall, but there are a few that are much longer than that. Once at the top of the climber there may be an option to walk off (usually down a hikers trial) and some route require that you rappel back to the ground. Tips Prepare for full day outdoors in any conditions: Bring small, but compact bag to carry all of your sh...oe, emergency kit, food, water, warm cloths, and rain proof layers. Climbing with a bag can feel make balance feel different- try practicing single pitch climbs with a bag on to see what works for you. Know what options are for decent (going down and hiking), what the routes near by Have a Plan B: climbing under another party increased your chances of getting caught in rock fall. If someone beats you to the climb, have another route option or two. Learn the skills: multi-pitch climbing requires technical skills that single pitch outdoor climbing does not use, so you may need to do some learning before you go. #multipitchclimb #doyouclimb #yycclimbing #getoutandclimb

CAMP Matik Belay Device Review Assisted braking devices are ideal for new belayers and youth, and a commonly used for intro programs and in climbing gyms. For years the PETZL GriGri has dominated the market for Assisted Braking Devices, but the Matik has great potential to change that. ... About the same size, weight, and shape as GriGri, it would be easy to confuse the two at first glance. However, the feel of feeding out and taking in slack (especially on lead) with the Matik is far more like using a tubluar style device. Because the Matik has less sensitive locking point, I found that lead belayers had less difficulty smoothly paying out rope and that for top rope belay it gave more feedback to proper (brake hand down) braking postion. When the rope is suddenly loaded the Matik allows for small amount slippage before assisting the breaking, making it easier to give a soft catch. The hinged lever is eased back to lower the climber, and this design makes it very difficult to put the device suddenly into a fully open positon. As the camming action is difficult to override if the climbers full weight is not on the rope, I am guessing that lowering may be slower when trying to lower a child but I have yet to test this out (will report back when I do!). Overall my impression is that the Matik offers the best of both words with peace of mind of a mechanical backup with the smooth rope action of a Tubluar style device. Highlights unable to clip to the device when its in a open (loading) position low locking point, even with thicker ropes can easily switch between taking in and feeding out rope Smooth action #weighmyrack #gearstoke #doyouclimb #belay #climbinglife #radmumsyyc @camp1889 @norsemanoutdoor @ Calgary, Alberta

Your first lead climbs outdoors should be fun. @tanya.desousa laying back a short crack sequence on her way to clean the anchor for the first time. #womenonlead #leadclimbing #yycclimbing #yycfit #getoutandclimb

Metal equipment has an unlimited lifespan- until it starts showing signs of wear. So how do you know if your gear is still good to use? Metal to metal contact and repeated friction from the rope can cause wear and damage over time. Inspect your equipment regularly looking for... Sharp edges Grooves... Burrs Correct function of moving parts Gate flutter (not fully closing) Corrosion You may be able to sand down minor burrs and sharp edges but eventually this damage may require you to retire the piece. #weighmyrack #gearstoke #doyouclimb #gear #climb #yycclimbing @ Calgary, Alberta

What to look for when inspecting your rope. #weighmyrack #gearstoke #sterlingrope #doyouclimb #climb @norsemanoutdoor

Know what to look for when you are inspecting your rope. Before each use, run the rope through your hands feeling and looking for... Sheath Creep Soft Spots and Core Damage (rope will fold on itself, feels soft and squishy)... Sheath damage Discoloration Glazing (hard, shiny spots) Exposed Core Lumps and Bumps If the problem spot is near the end of the rope you may be able to cut the section off. Once you have cut a rope you [and your climbing partners] need to be hyper aware that the rope may not be able to reach on those longer pitches/rappels. For more information care, inspection, and recommended lifespan of gear go to the manufacturers website. The video in my next post will show what each of these issues looks like. #doyouclimb #climb [If anyone knows any editing magic to combine photos and videos into the same format, I would love to hear from you]

Lead into a summer of adventure. #doyouclimb #yycclimbing #yycfit #getoutside

Heres everything you need to sport lead outdoors this summer; Guidebook Belay device w/ locker Shoes (for the approach and climbing) Harness... Helmet Personal Anchor System w/ locking carabiner Rope (60m, 9.4-10.1mm) Rope bag or tarp 12 quickdraws Alpine draws: 2-3 60cm, 1-2 120cm Anchor set up: 120cm nylon sling, 2 non-lockers, 1 large locker (2 if you will be using it as a TR anchor) Besides climbing gear you also want to be prepared for a full day outdoors in any conditions, so also pack; a backpack big enough for all your gear belay gloves and glasses Plenty of food and snacks At least 1L of water a first aid kit communication device (there might not be cell service) Extra cloths for all weather conditions Bathroom kit Headlamp Bearspray Take a course with us to learn how to use all this gear and recieve a voucher for 10% climbing gear at the Norseman! #climbinglife #doyouclimb #climboutside #leadclimbing #climb #yycclimbing #yycfit

One of the many slab traverses of Deception, a 10 pitch mixed route on Nanny goat. When this route was established in the 70s it was climbed as a trad line in 5 pitches. Although its still consider a trad climb, there are now a generous number of bolts protecting the long sections of slab and broken corners that offer no hope of protection. In fact there are easily more than 3 the number bolts than gear placements. No, the moves arent terribly hard, but even now th...eres a health dose of spice. Not once did I find a spot where I thought "now heres a great place to build a trad anchor" but I did consider some scrappy options I could make something work. If you want to get a feel of what some of the old school climbing was about. Climb this route and as you are just imagine the what the original ascent must have felt like with none of those bolts.... it would have been quite the adventure. #madrespect #rockiesclimbing #bowvalleyclimbing #slabclimbing #traversepitch #tradisrad

GOLDRUSH & MACLAB SLAB in a day; 630m of 5.7 (and easier) climbing & rappelling on the West End of Rundle. I went out with @sparkyclimbs the other day to check out the newly bolted routes on WEOR. We had a fun day of climbing, I got to assess how they would be as potential guiding routes, and we played with how Covid-19 best practices work in reality. Notes: Both routes are very safely bolted and would make great climbs for those honing their multi-pitch skills and are ...accessible for youth. There is substantial rock fall hazard on both and the length of the routes may challenge some. Covid considerations seem to be pretty easy to observe, even when multipitching. For the most part, we could keep enough distance between us to not need a mask, and we made an effort not to put draws or the rope in our mouth. We used disinfectant as needed and all of the equipment we used is now in quarantine. When we met up with another team on rappel we simply all put on our masks and did touch eachother equipment. Huge thanks to Melba at Bowness Soapworks for the Outdoor Series Washable Masks. These handmade local YYC masks are designed for adventurers with a blend of up-cycled and new material. 3 layers: Synthetic outer layer for flexibility and breathability with cotton inner and filter pocket for option to insert an extra layer. Wire free and elastic free for comfort and longevity. Follows Government of Canada guidelines for non medical masks. Find them in on IG @bownesssoapworks and on FB at Bowness Soapworks & SetoPottery #banffclimbing #climbingyyc #explorealberta #multipitch #supportlocalyyc #doyouclimb #playsafe

Do you know how to responsibly poo in the woods? The proper disposal of human waste is increasingly becoming an issue as more people are visiting local crags and climbing areas. Many areas have no facilities at all, and those that do are still locked due to Covid considerations. So this means that many more people will be squatting in the bush this spring. Do your part to minimize human impact by going out prepared, burying your feces, and packing out your waste. 1. Make ...a bathroom kit In a small bag pack: toilet paper (in a ziplock bag), 2 extra zip seal bags, hang sanitizer and/or biodegradable soap, feminine products (all your lady friends will thank you), and a trowel. 2. Find a good spot. At least 70 adult paces from water, trails or frequently used areas. An elevated sunny site with deep organic soil will increase decomposition and minimize potential for water contamination. 3. Dig a Cathole and do your business Make a hole depth of the trowel blade (6"-8"). Use your TP sparingly and then seal it up in one of your extra zip seal bags. Do not put it in the hole. 4. Disguise and cover Fill back in and cover it up with native materials. ---------------- NOTES: Here in the Rockies, research has shown that burial of feces slows decomposition and that pathogens have survived for a year or more when buried. However, it is still generally best to bury it. --------------- In the Alpine where there is little or no organic soil and a short warm season the smear technique can be used, or you may need to pack out the feces. --------------- For more information on caring for our natural places check out Leave No Trace Canada; Their 7 principles are a must know for all outdoor adventures. #leavenotrace #climbinglife #yycclimbing #kananaskis #doyouclimb #getoutdoors

To help Canadians gain access to the health and wellness benefits that come from being outdoors and in nature, a number of Parks Canada places will be gradually restoring visitor access and services. Stage 1 : Day use only June 1, 2020 Visiting Banff National Park will be different than it has been in previous years. While some of the restrictions and closures implemented to date as a result of COVID-19 will be lifted on June 1, others will remain in effect. Now, more tha...n ever, it is crucial that park users plan ahead and ensure they are familiar with the current visitor experience offer in Banff National Park. https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/pn-np/ab/banff/visit/covid-19-info

A big fat Squamish crack. I try to make the journey out to Squamish at least once a season for the incredible crack climbing. This year I will just be climbing closer to home and i am excited to keep exploring the incredible trad lines we have here. Personally, I love Rockies trad, but not many people feel the same way. Rockies trad doest have continuous crack systems like you see in this photo, rather our trad lines tend to be in corner systems, or zag zag along discontinuo...us cracks, ledges and grooves. Double rope techniques are more common and recommend for some routes (almost never done in squamish), and route finding can be challenging. Overall the Rockies trad had a more adventurous, alpine feel to it, and presents more challenges, so has earned the reputation as being sketchy. The trad climbs here, even with an easy or moderate grade, often end up being more of an undertaking then most expect. There are long uphill approaches, require problem solving to find creative natural pro and good gear placement. Old school ethics mean there are still sections of run outs through easy climbing and there a healthy dose of choss. In other words, the learn curve is a lot steeper on this side of the divide. As many of us wont be able to travel to more trad friendly climbing destinations, more people will be trying to learn these skills here this summer. It is important to make sure you have confidence in your skills before you go, even if the grade is moderate. Seek out certified instruction and get recommendations from experience climbers on what are the friendlier routes. Have fun out there and play safe. #doyouclimb #yycfit #climbingyyc #calgaryclimbing #bowvalleyclimbing #rockiesclimbing #yycactive #radmumsyyc

"The safety, comfort, and security we crave arent objective states. They are subjective feelings that come through increasing our understanding of our world and our capabilities. In short, we gain comfort and security by expanding our comfort zones, and we expand our comfort zones by venturing into the risk zone. We make ourselves uncomfortable and insecure for a short time in order to learn what we are capable of." Arno Ilgner, The Rock Warriors Way Keeping up mental healt...h has been challenging for many through the Covid emergency, myself included. I am trying to see this brief time of discomfort in our lives as an opportunity to grow and continue developing my best self. Because like in climbing, having feelings of insecurity are a chance build resilience and practice my mental health strategies. I am learning that discomfort, fear, and uncertainty are not bad feelings and that there is nothing wrong with me when I feeling this way. #mentalstrength #climbinglife #womanwhoclimb #resilience #therockwarriorsway See more